Is Organic Food the Answer?

Well, that depends on the question.

Of all the things I write about -- energy, the greening of business, the politics and policy of climate change, geoengineering -- food is by far the most emotional. With near-religious fervor, people debate the merits or demerits of, broadly speaking, two ways to produce food.

The first can be described, depending upon who's talking, as big, fast, modern, conventional, industrial, intensive, chemical, genetically-modified, processed and global. It's the system that delivers most of the food that most Americans eat.

The second is described as organic, sustainable, local, small-scale, family-owned, natural, agro-ecological and slow. It's driving the growth of farmer's markets and community-supported agriculture, as well as Whole Foods, and it's increasingly being taken seriously by big companies like Walmart, Safeway and Kroger's.

As shoppers and as eaters, most of us partake from both worlds. But make no mistake about it -- the advocates of conventional food and those pushing reform are deeply polarized, as I've seen first-hand lately.

Earlier this month, I moderated a conference for CropLife America, a trade association of companies that make herbicides and pesticides. [Disclosure: They paid me to do so.] To their credit, the folks at CropLife -- corporate members include Bayer CropScience, DuPont, Monsanto and Syngenta -- brought in critics like Robby Kenner, director of the movie "Food Inc.," and Greg Jaffe of Center for Science in the Public Interest. The CropLife people and their allies say they have nothing against organic or alternative food systems, but they don't believe that organic ag can match modern agriculture (their term of choice) in terms of efficiency or yield. A reliable food supply on a large scale and at reasonable cost can only be guaranteed with the help of crop protection products, they say. Steve Savage, an industry consultant and blogger, made this argument articulately at the CropLife event; he's skeptical about the claims being made for organic ag, to say the least. See, for example, Organic Crops Alone Can't Feed the World, from Slate, or The Seven Most Dangerous Myths About Organic Farming.

Last week, at the Monterey Bay Aquarium's Cooking for Solutions powwow, organic advocates were out in full force, particularly at a scrumptious all-organic breakfast at Earthbound Farm, America's largest brand of organic produce. There we heard from Earthbound co-founder Myra Goodman, a passionate advocate for organic, and from Maria Rodale, chairman of Rodale Inc and author of Organic Manifesto: How Organic Food Can Heal Our Planet, Feed the World and Keep Us Safe. Her subtitle sums up the claims made on behalf of organics very well and in the book she goes a step farther, writing: "Organic agriculture is the key to our survival."

Frankly, I'm confused about much of this. I'm skeptical in particular of the claim that organic agriculture is as productive or more productive than farming methods that use synthetic chemicals and genetically-modified foods. Partly that's because most farmers have embraced modern ag. Less than 1 percent of US farmland is farmed organically. If farmers could improve their yields by giving up chemicals and genetically modified seeds, why wouldn't they?

I put that question to organic advocates in Monterey including the fine farm and food journalist Tom Philpott and author-activist Anna Lappe, as well as Rodale, and got some interesting answers. They identified strong cultural and institutional obstacles to organic.

Big seed companies, they said, dominate the market and push farmers towards GM crops. Agriculture schools and crop consultants who advise farmers are financed by and tilt toward chemical methods. Even the 4-H and Future Farmers of America are funded by the chemical companies.